Activating biochar with worm castings tea from scratch..
Biochar is something we have only just started to add to the garden beds even though the bag has been in storage under the house for the past year :/ I think that some of our beds are really lacking in organic matter, nutrients as well as the micro organisms that help make nutrients readily available for the plants.. I am hoping that the addition of the char, castings tea & the worm filled vermicast will help raise these levels for the next crop.. I have also started to feed the beds with a lot more horse manure not only to add organic matter but to also provide a ready source of food for the worms.. PLEASE NOTE!!!! Have since learned that it is best not to add the Mycorrhiza to the compost tea as it probably wont survive.. You are better off adding it when planting out seeds, seedlings & larger plants.. The char we bought came from Black Earth Products at Kurwongbah, on the north side of Brisbane, not the Sunshine coast as I said in the clip sorry.. http://www.blackearthproducts.com.au Chemical analysis of the biochar we bought.. https://www.blackearthproducts.com.au/about-biochar/biochar-chemical-analysis/ The mycorrhiza we use came from.. http://www.maiaustralia.com.au/products/overview A few sites I found helpful are Black Earth's "About Biochar" page http://www.blackearthproducts.com.au/about-biochar/ U.S. Biochar Initiative http://www.biochar-us.org/index.html International Biochar Initiative http://www.biochar-international.org/biochar These are just 2 of the many I found & had a look through... A quick search on "biochar" & "syngas" will unearth hours of reading for you if your interested... There are loads of biochar & syngas clips right here on YT as well.. I don't endorse the above information or products, just sharing my sources ;) For more regular updates from the aquaponic & wicking gardens come visit us at http://www.facebook.com/Bitsouttheback Have a great one everyone..
Comments
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i thought the compost worms would eat the fresh roots of the plants when they run out of food? someone told me this.
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Hi Rob,Love your video!I am going organic,have my own worms,making lacto bascillus(for the 3rd time spilt the last lot on my bedroom carpet,2 ltrs,before i added mollases,so bedroom smells like a cheese factory!)made fish emulsion,waiting for LAB to finish it.Your horse manure,i saw worms in it,was it aged?have heard it needs to be at least 1 year old,otherwise too hot?
whats your exp with that?
Hope you reply,as this vid is 3 years old and so many people dont reply.
Thanks in advance. :-) -
Molasses kills soil brix levels. Use oat flour instead.
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Hello Rob, I just watched a number of videos produced by Alberta Urban Garden by Stephen Legaree. He and other amateur gardening researchers compared rock dust grown veggies, biochar grown veggies, and a control group of veggies looking at a number of indicators of successful veggie production. (I noticed you had commented on one of their videos as well). Their research in two growing seasons indicated no significant statistical difference between the two growing additives and the control. I was wondering what your thoughts are in that regard. Sorry, I know it's a big question. I suppose I'm particularly concerned with the ambitious claims of the rock dust companies due to the huge cost of purchasing rock dust. And I suppose with biochar the cost of purchasing it, or the time trying to produce it yourself. Your thoughts?
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Excellent stuff, thanks for posting. Regarding the Mycorrhizal inoculant, you are correct, chances are they won't survive longer than 2-6hrs in your brewer, however you still want to add them before applying the tea to your plants. I recommend adding it about 1-2hrs before you apply it to your plants, as this not only ensures they stay alive but are already alive & thriving when you apply them. I'm not sure what inoculants you're using but whatever they are you can replace ALL of them with one product, its called Recharge Professional Strength Microbial Superpack (realgrowers.com), its an all natural soil conditioner that contains more CFU/g of all the beneficial probiotic's than ANY other inoculant on the market, even more than RAW=Microbes. Recharge is one of the BEST products Ive seen in a LONG TIME! It can not only replace all of your probiotic inoculants but also your humic/fulvic/amino acids, kelp extracts as well as molasses. At approx $30 for 8.oz its a tad on the pricey side, however the usage rate is only 1/2tsp per gal & the results it produces makes it more than worth the price, IMHO.
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Thanks for the video. Just started making Biochar in my Coonara (looks like its going to be a long winter, so why not?) Just wondering if the Molassas (spell?) was causing the bubbles?
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While I appreciate your videos (excellent productions & explanations), I remain unconvinced of the benefits of biochar (or compost tea or rock dust for that matter). I always look for objective field trials to see if the particular approach would be worth my time and effort to improve upon my relatively healthy raised beds. Otherwise, thanks for taking the effort to post the video.
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I make mine in the wood stove with low oxygen, around 500 F stack temp. Throw in chicken bones, too! Caution on the red wigglers- they can become invasive in a forest setting causing too rapid decomposition for healthy forests....
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hi rob
where do you buy your biochar from? Cheers. -
It's been over a year. I'd like to know your opinion of the biochar. I've been seriously considering using a chunky biochar in my aquaponics.
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You may have answered this already but where did you buy the water filter you spoke of in the video? A link would be great. Thanks mate.
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Probably run an Oxygen meter on that tea mate. That much foam tells me the tea maybe anaerobic, promoting/brewing the least favored types of biology. 5 parts per million is the min. 18-24 hrs is plenty enough for teas. And no more than 1% food added. If you are doing compost tea. Remove the Mother/Compost after 12 hrs. Its a great concept you have, but I have found using some digital meters and a 400x microscope that you will fine tune your brew very quickly. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the vid. BTW The Myco needs a symbiotic organism (plant) to activate or function.
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i bet that patch explodes with veggies!
pretty sure there is not much use in including mycos in the brew. -
Hi Rob
Thanks for the video. I an currently making my own char using the csrbon from my wood fire here in Sydney.
What application rate do you use as I have read a suggested rate of 3 cups / sq foot. Here is an interesting article you may find useful
www.dyarrow.org/CarbonSmart
I also make compost tea using the following formulae
Compost Tea Formulae
20 litres
Worm Cast/Compost 500ml 2.38%
Molasses 150ml 0.5 -0.75 %
Fish Emulsion 80ml 0.063 -0 20%
Sphagnum peatmoss one handful
Brew for 36 to 48 hr
Using my microscope I have verified good increase of bacterial numbers.
I also brew the NTS MicroForce Brew using their kit which I distribute. It contains 12 different strains of bacteria and a special nutrient mix.
What mycorrhizal mix do you use?
Peter -
If you want to see how Biochar is made in the Peruvian Amazon check out this link: http://youtu.be/KNFDOGWozKU
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couldn't you make that stuff in some kind of solar oven or something like that...whithout burning any fuel?
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burp! says your bed, lol tasty bed
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whats the bottle doing in the bed?
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was it tap water you topped it off with?
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Rob, can you share the outcome of your biochar / wormcast tea experiment? Did you have a desingated control area so you can compare outcomes of growth without the tea....?
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